A preface to say that my expertise is in fine metal jewellery - gold and silver - this guide will not discuss gem-set jewellery in any length.
Antique gold jewellery is a timeless treasure, that helps us connect with our history. However, caring for these delicate pieces requires both knowledge and a gentle touch. In this guide, we'll walk you through the best practices for maintaining your beloved heirlooms.
Why Ultrasonic Cleaners Fall Short:
Ultrasonic cleaners are popular for their efficiency, but they are not the best choice for antique jewellery at home. These cleaners use high-frequency sound waves to create vibrations that dislodge dirt and debris. This can be too harsh for delicate antique gold pieces and indeed vintage pieces. The vibrations may cause subtle yet significant damages, including loosening gemstones, weakening prongs, or even altering the delicate patina that adds character to vintage jewellery. Antique clasps can also be irreparably damaged by ultrasonic cleaning.
To add to this; even when it comes to jewellery sturdy enough to not sustain damage from an ultrasonic, in my opinion most domestic-grade ultrasonics do not offer enough of a superior clean to be worth the money to buy or space to store. Remember, ultrasonics do not remove tarnish from jewellery.
The Power of Soap and Water: A tried-and-true method for cleaning your cherished pieces is using mild soap and water. Fill a bowl with warm water and add a few drops of mild dish soap or baby shampoo. Gently submerge your jewellery and allow it to soak for a few minutes. Then, use a soft-bristled toothbrush (I save all my used toothbrushes for this purpose, as they are softer once they have been used for a few months) or a cotton swab to gently clean intricate areas. Finally, rinse thoroughly with water and pat dry.
Gold / Silver Polishing Cloths: A polishing cloth is a must-have tool in any jewellery care arsenal. These are the ones I use: https://amzn.to/44SjiwD
These cloths are specially designed with microfiber materials infused with cleaning agents. When used correctly, they can work wonders in restoring the brilliance of your antique gold jewellery. Here's how it works:
Chemical Reaction: They work via a chemical reaction between the cleaning agents and the surface of the jewellery. As you gently rub the cloth against the gold, the tarnish and dirt are lifted away, leaving behind a beautiful shine.
Why It Turns Black: As you use the gold polishing cloth, you may notice it turns black. This darkening occurs due mostly to oxidation and only partly due to a transfer of tarnish and debris from the jewellery. Don't worry; this is a sign that the cloth is doing its job. Some people assume because black is "coming off," their jewellery is filthy, this is not the case, its simply a chemical reaction.
A polishing cloth can be used until both sides are fairly dark all over. In a professional setting I get through about one every 9-12 months. In a domestic setting a cloth will likely last you many, many years.
You Are Removing Metal: Jewellery dullness is caused by micro abrasions on the surface of your piece and occur from normal use. When using a microfibre cloth you are polishing down these abrasions to leave a smooth, and thus shiny, surface. But, remember, this is because a very very tiny layer of metal is being removed from the top layer of your jewellery. This is why the cautions below are suggested.
Safe Usage: Gold polishing cloths are safe for most solid gold and silver jewellery, including antique pieces. However, avoid using them on jewellery with delicate gemstones, pearls, or porous stones, as the abrasiveness of the cloth could cause damage. Also avoid using them on gilt pieces as this could remove the gilt layer or erode it, or any other kind of plating (including if you have a white gold piece that has been rhodium plated). You can use them on rolled-gold pieces, but exercise a great deal of caution, use them as infrequently as you can, and be very gentle while polishing.
How Often to Use: The frequency of using a gold polishing cloth depends on how often you wear your jewellery and its exposure to air and elements. As a general rule, use the cloth only when necessary to avoid excessive wear on the gold's surface, and definitely no more often than every 6 months on solid gold and silver pieces.
A Note About Pinchbeck: I love pinchbeck jewellery, and think its a fantastic antique purchase. Pinchbeck does tarnish more quickly than gold, but can be shined up beautifully with a polishing cloth and as pinchbeck jewellery is created without the use of plating to give the jewellery its gold tone, it can be treated like other solid metal jewellery. You may have to use the cloth on these more often, especially if the pinchbeck gets exposed to water or chemicals.
A note about liquid jewellery cleaners; I advise you do not use these. In professional settings they can be useful but they are much more abrasive that cloths and so mishaps are more likely to occur. If a polishing cloth is not doing the job then taking your jewellery to a jeweller for professional advise and a clean.
Summary: Avoid using ultrasonic cleaners, as their powerful vibrations can damage delicate pieces and their effectiveness is debatable. Instead, opt for soap and water for regular cleaning. For a brilliant restoration of shine, invest in a gold polishing cloth, harnessing its chemical magic while being cautious with its usage on certain gemstones and on gilt jewellery. With these expert tips, your precious antique gold jewellery will remain stunning and cherished for generations to come. Happy caring!
(Note: When using any cleaning method or product, always consider the specific characteristics of your antique jewellery and, when in doubt, seek professional advice from a reputable jeweller, or drop me a message and I would be happy to discuss it with you)
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